在Wine to Asia与Grape Wall of China联合推出的Q&8系列中，首轮对话将迎来James Suckling.com中国葡萄酒编辑——帅泽堃。他将细致诠释品评及评分要素，如100分葡萄酒的评定，并将中国自然酒热潮带来他的独特见解，还将分享特别的墨西哥葡萄酒产区探访经历等。Shuai Zekun is associate editor for James Suckling.com and a specialist in Chinese wine. Originally based in Beijing, but working out of Hong Kong since last fall, Shuai discusses how scoring works, what qualifies for 100 points, the low-intervention wine trend in China, how his ping pong hobby syncs with wine tasting, his time spent in Mexico exploring wine, and more.James Suckling.com中国葡萄酒编辑平衡性及易饮程度是我在90分评分中倾向考虑的两大因素。对于89分酒款，我可能会觉得这杯酒并不是那么易饮，或者说不是我的风格，有点过于成熟或过度萃取——但整体上品质不错，对于喜欢这类风格酒款的人群还是推荐的。
94分与95分间的差异相对较大。两个层级的酒款品质都十分出众，且非常平衡，展现了深度、浓郁度、复杂度和余味长度。
但95分以上的酒款通常会含有“惊喜”因素，个性十分独特，有着活泼的果味，丰富的层次感，出色的单宁，鲜明的品种特性，或具有产区风土的代表性。这一层级酒款通常还表达出酿酒师的高超酿造工艺，具有上佳的陈年潜力。
在95分以上的酒款评分中，我通常会在首次品评几小时后再次品鉴，以确认酒款品质。直观来说，我认为95分以上酒款都有着特别迷人之处，会让你想一瓶饮尽。这也侧面体现了该层级酒款的易饮性。
有两种类型的100分酒款：一种并不存在，一种是我工作的一部分。
从美学上讲，没有100分的葡萄酒。但我的工作，我们所做的，就是对优质葡萄酒进行评分、写评语，并向消费者推荐。
人总是喜欢简化复杂的事情，所以我们就用品评分数这种方式来评定酒款品质。尽管通过数字理解葡萄酒并不美好，但这种方式却非常高效、实用且受欢迎，因为让葡萄酒更容易理解，并帮助生产商达成更多销量。
如果一款酒能像音乐、电影或艺术品一样娓娓道来，并触动我，而且除了时间之外没有其他可以进一步提高它的品质，那么它就具有100分的潜力。当然，这样的酒质量上乘，而且也有对个人的触动部分。此外，喜欢看分数的人也应该阅读下品酒笔记，通常品鉴词中会对酒款有更多背景阐述和简介。
就像品酒一样，我从乒乓球拍测试中也获得了很多乐趣。没有100分完美的球拍，只有最适合自己的球拍。
我最近买了一个蝴蝶超级VIS球拍，非常适合我的打法。很多人喜欢这个球拍，也有很多人不喜欢。力量足，又足够快速，但却不难控制，从反手切换到正手也很方便。
总之，评价球拍和评价葡萄酒，以及评价音乐、艺术、咖啡等所有事物，相互之间都有相通的地方。鉴赏其实非常有利于比较、对比，并得出最终评级。
自然酒在葡萄酒影响力较强的城市更受欢迎。好奇心旺盛的年轻饮酒者和前卫酿酒师对新事物更为开放，他们是推动这一趋势的主要力量，尤其是那些曾在国外生活并了解这类葡萄酒的酿造逻辑的人群。
自然酒还只是小众口味，但从大方面来讲，葡萄酒对于中国市场不也还只是小众饮品？不要低估自然酒热潮。
这一价格段的选择很多。怀来迦南酒业（Canaan Winery）这一价位段的葡萄酒就物超所值。他们的特选系列风格较为一致，值得一试。
此外，一些宁夏的葡萄酒，例如寸山（Petit Mont）的M4和紫大夫（Dunkelfelder）也推荐。
我最喜欢的葡萄酒之一是怡园酒庄（Grace Vineyards）的德熙珍藏系列（Tasya's Reserve）。蒲昌酒庄（Puchang Vineyard）的白羽（Rkatsiteli）也是一个不错的选择。
我曾在墨西哥担任中文老师，因此喜欢上了这个地方。作为一位中文老师，我假期比较多，得以经常去探访当地的葡萄酒产区，如瓜达卢佩山谷（Valle de Guadalupe）等。我还去过一些鲜为人知的产区，如科阿韦拉（Coahuila）和萨卡特卡斯（Zacatecas）。还曾经到过一个叫Don Leo的酒庄。这个酒庄位于帕拉斯山谷（Valle de Parras），拥有着独特的高地风土。
大多数墨西哥葡萄酒都只是内销。为了不错过这些墨西哥葡萄酒，在当地的时候，我每周都会买上三四瓶来品鉴，再和朋友共饮。
先列一些：L.A. Cetto Reserva Privada Nebbiolo，它实际可能不是内比奥罗（Nebbiolo）酿造的，但品质很好，而且性价比很高。这款酒来自墨西哥最大的葡萄酒生产商之一，质量对于中游价位葡萄酒来说算是非常不错的。
来自生产商Adobe Guadalupe的酒款，如“Rafael”，赤霞珠（Cabernet Sauvignon）和内比奥罗的混酿。
Villa Montefiori拥有很多优质的酒款：“Selezionato”可能是其中性价比最高的。Don Leo系列，包括西拉（Syrah）和黑皮诺（Pinot Noir）都推荐。还有Casa Madero ‘2V’ 霞多丽（Chardonnay）-白诗南（Chenin）混酿。如果要追求更为优质的酒款，则ícaro和Torre Alegres值得一试。
On the difference between 89 and 90 points.
Balance and drinkability are factors I tend to consider more for wines that score 90 points. A score of 89 means I might find it hard to drink a big glass of the wine—it's not my style, perhaps it's a bit overripe or too extracted—but it's good quality, so it is recommended for those who like that style.
And the difference between 94 and 95 points.
The difference is greatness. Both are well-balanced outstanding wines of quality that show depth and intensity, complexity and length.
But beyond that, 95-plus wines should have a "wow" factor, with distinctive character. It might be racy fruit, texture, tannin quality, discerning varietal typicality or the positive sense of place. The wine should show winemaking prowess and good aging potential, too.
I like to evaluate wines scoring 95 points and above again after a few hours to check if they are persistent. Most intuitively, I believe 95 points should be something very special where you would want to finish a whole bottle. See, it all comes back to drinkability again.
On recently awarding 100 points for the first time.
There are two types of 100-point wines: one doesn't really exist and one is part of my job.
Aesthetically, there is no such thing as a 100-point wine. But my job, and what we do, is to rate, give opinions and recommend quality wines to consumers.
Humans love to simplify complex things, so we rate, rank and give scores. Even though understanding wines through numbers is not beautiful, it is efficient, practical and popular because it makes wine easier to understand and helps producers sell more.
If a wine speaks to me and touches me, much as music or a movie or a piece of art might, and there is nothing else that I believe can improve it, except for time, then it has the potential for 100 points. Such wine is of great quality, of course, and has some personal connection, too. Also, those who love scores should also read the tasting notes, because they provide context and depth.
On the links between ping pong and wine.
Just like tasting wine, I get a bang out of testing ping pong rackets. There isn't any 100-point racket, just one that suits an individual player the best.
I recently got a Butterfly Super Viscaria racket, which suits my playing style. A lot of people like it and a lot people don't. It's very powerful and fast but also pretty easy to control and to switch from backhand to forehand.
Anyway, there is some relation between rating rackets and rating wines and rating everything else from music to art to coffee. Appreciation is very conducive to comparing, contrasting and ultimately rating.
On the rise of natural wines in China.
Now it is more popular in cities where wine has a stronger presence. Curious young drinkers and avant-garde winemakers who are more open to new things are driving this trend, especially those who have lived abroad and understand the logic of making this type of wine.
It is still a niche taste now, but isn't wine in general still a niche drink for most Chinese households Just don't underestimate the growth of its popularity.
On Chinese labels priced rmb200 to rmb300 for aficionados.
There are many choices now. Canaan Winery from Huailai County makes good-value wines at that price point. Their Mastery range is quite consistent and almost everything is worth trying.
Also, try some wines from Ningxia, such as Petit Mont's M4 and Dunkelfelder.
One of my favorites is Grace Vineyard's Tasya's Reserve range. And Rkatsiteli from Puchang is a good choice.
On his growing interest in wine in Mexico.
I was working as a Mandarin teacher in Mexico and in love with the place. As a Chinese teacher, I had more holidays, so I'd always visit wine regions such as Valle de Guadalupe. I have also been to lesser-known regions such as Coahuila and Zacatecas. I still remember going to a new winery called Don Leo. They have a unique elevated terroir in the Valle de Parras.
Most Mexican wines are consumed domestically. So, the idea was to take advantage while I was there. I would buy three or four bottles every week to taste, then drink with friends.
On what Mexican producers he would like to see in China.
Let me name a few: L.A. Cetto Reserva Privada Nebbiolo, which might not be a Nebbiolo at all, but is good and is great value. This is one of the biggest producers but the quality in the mid-range is very solid.
Something from the producer Adobe Guadalupe, such as 'Rafael', a Cabernet Sauvignon and Nebbiolo blend.
Villa Montefiori has plenty of good wines: 'Selezionato' is probably the best-value. Don Leo, either the Syrah or Pinot Noir. Casa Madero '2V' Chardonnay-Chenin. And if you looking for something very premium, ícaro and Torre Alegres.
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